look, imma keep it real w you rn – the skincare industry is WILD overrated and most products are straight cope. afaict there are literally only four ingredients that have robust clinical evidence behind them. here’s the actual science:
1. retinoids (esp tretinoin)
basically the GOAT of skincare fr fr. here’s why it’s actually legit:
- increases collagen synthesis and cell turnover (demonstrated in multiple randomized controlled trials)
- proven to reduce both photoaging and acne
- literally prescribed as a drug bc it actually works
- main downside is it can be irritating af at first
pro tip: start w otc retinol if you’re new to this, then level up to prescription tret when your skin isn’t being a little baby anymore
2. sunscreen (specifically broad spectrum spf)
ok this one’s obvious but the mechanism is actually 200iq:
- prevents dna damage from uv radiation
- blocks both uva (aging) and uvb (burning) rays
- best evidence is from skin cancer prevention studies
- literally every derm agrees on this one which is LOW KEY rare
important caveat: most ppl don’t use enough. you need like a whole teaspoon for your face which is actually insane but true
3. vitamin c (l-ascorbic acid)
this one’s kinda mid tbh but the evidence still goes hard:
- antioxidant properties that are actually demonstrated in vivo
- helps w photoprotection when used w sunscreen
- some evidence for collagen synthesis but it’s not as strong as retinoids
- main issue is stability – most formulations are GARBAGE
protip: if it’s not irritating slightly and doesn’t smell like pennies, it’s probably not doing anything
4. niacinamide
the most slept on ingredient fr:
- reduces inflammation
- helps w barrier function
- some evidence for hyperpigmentation
- plays well w other ingredients unlike some drama queens (looking at you, vitamin c)
what’s actually wild is that it’s mad cheap to produce but companies stay marking it up
the truth about everything else
idk about other ingredients tbh. like hyaluronic acid? mid. peptides? cope. snail mucin? basically just expensive moisturizer. ceramides? your skin already makes them.
keep it simple stupid:
- am: vitamin c, sunscreen
- pm: niacinamide, tretinoin
- moisturizer if your skin’s being extra
everything else is just marketing and confirmation bias sending your wallet to the shadow realm fr fr
remember: if something seems too good to be true, it probably is. and if your fave skincare influencer is pushing it, they’re probably getting that bag from the company no cap
closing thoughts
skincare doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive to work. the science is pretty clear on what actually does something vs what just feels nice. everything else is just giving your money to Big Beauty for no reason fr
disclaimer: this is based on current research as of 2024 but science stays moving so watch this space ig
